STUDIO ARTESANIA: Polymer Clay

Everyone who saw this pendant is convinced that is made of glass or epoxy resin. They are totally shocked when I tell them that I made it with polymer clay because it's so translucent. And, they are surprised even more when I tell them it's made of liquid polymer clay.

DIY Translucent and colorful polymer clay jewelry

Liquid polymer clay, as you will learn in this tutorial, is more than just a bonding agent for two pieces of baked polymer clay or attaching findings. There are many techniques where you can use liquid clay, and with this pendant, I will show you just one of them. I also made two differently shaped earrings (yes, I'm a weirdo who likes to wear just one statement earring) as an additional example of this technique.

To add a bit of color I used polymer clay pieces that I have from the previous project. To make those chunks read steps from 2 to 4 in my tutorial for the Cookies-looking Easter eggs table decoration.

To archive transparency, it's best to use a heat gun, but for those that do not have this tool, there is an explanation how to make this jewelry using the oven in the tips section of the tutorial. The earrings are made using the heat gun, and the pendant is made using the oven. As you can see they are equally translucent. They are so translucent that photographing them was quite a challenge.

If you haven't work with a heat gun before or you just got this tool, read this tutorial before you start making this pieces of jewelry to get more familiar with its use. To make those pieces of jewelry you can use whatever brand of clear liquid clay you want, but in my experience, the best results are with Fimo Liquid and Sculpey Clear, especially if you will cure it in the oven.

Materials and tools

Liquid polymer clay

Polymer clay chunks in various colors

Ceramic tile

Painting spatula knife

Heat gun

Oven

Scissors

Piercer

70 % Rubbing alcohol

Cotton pads

Paper towels

Jewelry findings (jump rings, earrings hooks, chain, clasp)

Jewelry pliers

Silver metal leaf (optional)

Silver glitter (optional)

Step 1.

Before you start, wipe your ceramic tile and the spatula with rubbing alcohol. You want to have perfectly clean tile and tool because at the end every single grain of dust or dirt will be obvious. Pour the liquid polymer clay on the ceramic tile. Amount of liquid clay depends on the size of your tile. Mine is 15x15 cm (5.9x5.9 inches) so I poured about one tablespoon of liquid clay to make sheet approximately same size. If your ceramic tile is bigger you can pour more liquid clay and make bigger clay sheet.

Step 2.

Spread the liquid clay on the tile using a spatula, ensuring that the coating is evenly thick. You want that your sheet is about 1 mm (0.03 inches) thick. If necessary add more liquid clay, or if you overdo it scup the excess with a clean spatula and carefully return it into the bottle (you will need to unscrew the bottle cap for this). Leave the clay on tile aside for several minutes to level up.

Step 3.

Sprinkle the clay chunks all over the liquid clay. Depending on what effect you want to archive you can cover entire clay surface with the chunks, or leave some spots uncovered. Press lightly those chunks with the spatula, so they do not stick out a lot.

For the pendant, I've spread chunks all over the liquid clay, but for earrings, I leave some spots uncovered so they are more see through. Keep in mind that during the curing with a heat gun, due to the blowing of hot air, the liquid clay will spread little more and that chunks will sink into it.

Step 4.

Cure the clay sheet with a heat gun. When you notice that the liquid clay is a transparent turn off the heat gun and set it aside in a place where it can't burn or melt something. Let the sheet and tile to completely cool. Do not remove the clay sheet from the tile after cooling.

Step 5.

Pour some more liquid clay on the cooled sheet. You'll need about the same amount of liquid clay as for the first layer.

Step 6.

With a clean spatula spread evenly the second layer of liquid clay on the cured sheet. Let it level up for several minutes, and cure it with a heat gun. When you notice that the sheet is a transparent turn off the heat gun. Again leave everything to cool down completely, and do not remove the clay sheet from the tile.

Step 7.

Apply the third layer of liquid clay, spread it evenly with a spatula. At this point, if you want to, you can add parts of silver leaf or sprinkle it with silver glitter, or both. Do not overdo it with glitter or leaf because it will affect transparency. With a spatula press parts of the leaf or glitter deeper into the clay. This way you will make your translucent jewelry even more interesting, and bit shinier. Let it sit for several minutes to allow the liquid clay to level up.

Step 8.

Cure it with a heat gun until become transparent, and let it cool. Carefully, without the stretching, peel the clay sheet from the tile.

Step 9.

Cut the clay sheet in the desired shapes with the sharp scissors. Given that the clay is only partially baked, you will cut it with ease. For cutting, you can use custom-made templates, or you can cut it randomly. For the pendant, I used a template I made previously, and which I put next to clay sheet and trace the shape during the cutting. I shaped earrings with randomly cutting.
During the cutting keep in mind that flat side of the sheet (the side that was on the tile) is the right side of your piece (the side that everyone will see). The side that was faced toward you when you worked on the piece may be slightly bumpy so it will become a back side (the side that will be close to your skin) of the pendant or earrings. Although that side is bumpy on the look it's smooth to touch and you will not feel a tingling or anything annoying on the skin.

Step 10.

Using the piercer make the holes in desired places.

Step 11.

You will notice that the sheet that you made of liquid clay and treated with the heat gun is bit harden and flexible, but know that it is still not fully baked. With the heat gun the clay is just partially cured, but to fully harden it you must bake it in the oven at proper temperature.

So, first preheat oven as directed by manufacturer's guidelines. Preheating of the oven is crucial step to properly bake the polymer clay. When the temperature in the oven is right, bake your jewelry made of liquid polymer clay for minimum 30 minutes (and I always recommend the baking for an hour). To prevent eventual yellowish traces on the liquid clay cover it up with the sheet of baking paper. After you finish the baking let your piece to cool, or to speed the process put it in the bowl of cold water.

If after the final baking in the oven your jewelry lost on transparency a little, which is possible with some brands of liquid clay, treat it with a heat gun again until you can see through it. Then, put the piece in cold water to cool it down. This way you will regain transparency.

Step 12.

Pass the jump rings through the holes, set the chain or earrings hooks, and close them with the pliers. That's it! Your translucent and colorful polymer clay jewelry is ready to wow everyone who sees it.

Tip, tricks, and few ideas

• If you do not have a heat gun and you will use the oven know that the steps to make translucent jewelry are almost the same. The only difference is that after each application of liquid clay, instead of a treating it with the heat gun, you will bake the clay sheet in the oven for 10 minutes. You must use the oven without the fan. So, the process goes like this: make the first layer of liquid clay, add polymer clay chunks, place the tile with the clay in the oven preheated on the recommended temperature of the liquid clay you use, bake for 10 minutes, leave to cool, make second liquid clay layer, bake for 10 minutes, let it cool, apply third layer of liqid clay, add silver leaf or glitter if you wantend to, bake for 10 minutes, let it cool, peel it off, cut it, make the holes and bake again for minimum 30 minutes.

• For this technique, a ceramic tile is an essential tool, especially if you use a heat gun for curing. But, if you do not have a heat gun and you will bake the liquid clay in the oven you can use thicker glass tile. The temperature of baking of polymer clay is to low to affect glass. But, never use the glass tile as a working space if you will treat the liquid clay with a heat gun.

• After every application of liquid clay clean spatula with rubbing alcohol. If you have a lot of excess clay on spatula you can carefully return it into the bottle (you will need to unscrew the bottle cap for this), and then wipe it with a cotton pad on which you added few drops of rubbing alcohol. More tips about cleaning tools used for liquid clay you will find in my tutorial for polymer clay cup and saucer.

• It is best that the thickness of the finished clay sheet is 3 to 5 mm (0.12 to 0.20 inches). If your sheet is too thin, add another layer of liquid polymer clay before the final baking in the oven. But, if it is thicker than the recommended one, do not worry. Although this jewelry may be thicker or big it is very light and you will not feel the weight at all during the wearing.
• This jewelry does not need to be varnished.

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Recently I posted an article about liquid polymer clay where I introduce you to this material. In that tutorial, I explained what is liquid clay, how to apply it, store it, for what you can use it, and how to bake it in the oven. Now I want to show you how to cure it with the heat gun. Also, I will share some of the mistakes I made when I started using the heat gun, what I learned from them and what you need to do to avoid those mistakes.

How to cure liquid polymer clay with a heat gun?

What is a heat gun?

A heat gun (often called hot air gun or hot air station) is a device used to emit a stream of hot air. Do not confuse the heat gun with the hair dryer, although they look very similar. Heat guns are made up of a source of heat, for example, an electrically heated element or a gas flame and have an electric fan that has the ability to move the hot air. It may also come with a nozzle that allows the user to direct the hot air towards a particular object. The nozzle comes in various different shapes, depending on the requirement of the user. There is a trigger on the handle, which when pressed turns the machine on. It may also come with an external stand if the user does not want to hold it for long periods of time.

Types of heat guns

Depending on the usage, the type of heat guns differs in terms of heat temperature and how the airflow is directed. On the market, there are two different types of heat guns that can be used for polymer clay. There is heat gun for the hobbyist which is mainly intended for scrapbooking, embossing and such things, and the professional/industrial heat gun that craftsmen use for stripping paint and varnish, loosening rusted nuts and bolts or thaw frozen pipes.

The main difference between those two heat guns is at a temperature and airflow they can develop. Also, they slightly differ in the design. The embossing heat guns are looking more like a stick, and they have a built-in stand, until industrial are bulkier and they usually have the form of an elongated body pointing at what is to be heated, with a handle fixed to it at right angles and a trigger, in the same general layout as a handgun.

Embossing heat gun (often called mini heat gun) has lower temperatures range (approximately from 100 to 300 ° C/212 to 572 ° F, depending on manufacturer) until the professional one has higher temperature range (approximately from 300 to 800 ° C/527 to 1472 ° F, depending on manufacturer). Those temperatures from the heat guns far excide what you need to cure polymer clay. To remind you, the ideal temperature for Fimo is 110 ° C (220 ° F), for Sculpey 130 ° C (266 ° F), and for Kato 150 ° C (302 ° F).

So if you use embossing heat gun set it at 200 ° C (392 ° F). I use an industrial heat gun that I got from my dad, and its temperature range is from 350 to 600 ° C (662 to 1112 ° F). I always cure the liquid clay on lowest temperature, which is 350 ° C (662 ° F).

It's hard for me to recommend which one of those two heat guns you should get. I love my industrial heat gun, and it will work great for you as well if you will use it only for polymer clay. But, if you want to use it for other artistic things, such as embossing, then get a hobbyist one. You know better what your artistic/crafters needs are, so get the heat gun according to them. The industrial heat gun you can find in every hardware store and embossing heat gun is available in craft stores. If you have the opportunity to check the heat gun you want to buy, make sure that it does not blow all around. The jet of hot air must be pointed (preferably with a nozzle) and blow needs to have the less forced flow.

Can I use a hair dryer?

This question I've heard very often at my workshops and the answer is - NO, you can not. Although not called such, a hair dryer is basically a form of a low-temperature heat gun. However, hair dryer and a heat gun are not the same and are also used in different contexts. Hair dryers are well for drying hair mostly and can also be used sometimes in case of a heat gun, for example, to dry thicker layer of acrylic paint on canvas. A heat gun emits much higher temperatures compared to hair dryers and is used for commercial purposes. It should never be used on the hair as it can result in singeing the hair. These are two completely different devices and should not be used interchangeably.

Baking surface

When I got my heat gun I did not have a clue how to work with it, and how to use it for polymer clay. At that time there was no tutorial to explain how to cure the polymer clay with it, and the only one I found, I know that now, was incomplete and inaccurate. So, I made three big mistakes and learned a lot from them.

I did not think and at the beginning, I used the glass as the baking surface. Thick glass, but glass! Eventually, that glass has burst from heat. I do not know what was more annoying - a destroyed piece of jewelry I worked on or the fact that I've been collecting pieces of broken glass scattered all over my apartment for the days. Luckily I wasn't hurt, but when that glass broke everything could go wrong. I could get cut, the piece of glass could end up in my eye... Even now I'm scared to think what can happen because I did not use my brain. That was my mistake number one from which I learned to never ever use glass for curing the liquid polymer clay with a heat gun.

Then I started to use ceramic tile as a baking surface. It worked as a charm until one day I noticed traces of ignition (not burns per se, but yellowish traces similar to those when you place a hot cup of tea on the table without coaster) on my wooden working desk. It was an old desk, but anyway I did not want those traces on it. I knew that my heat gun is strong and that it could develop a high temperature, but I completely forgot that the ceramic can transfer the heat. I wasn't thinking! Again!

Maybe now you think I'm completely crazy because a lot of polymer clay artist (me included) use ceramic tiles as work surfaces, as well as baking the clay in the oven, but the fact that ceramics and porcelain can absorb temperature is the reason why those tiles are used as a floor covering for underfloor heating. That's why you have to check when you buy a cover for underfloor heating, the thermal conductivity of tiles, which means how well the floor material of your choice transfers heat from the heating system to the surface of the floor. Just remember how many times you burn your fingers on a ceramic or porcelain cup full of warm tea or coffee and you'll know what I'm talking about. Since the ceramic tile can warm up a lot of polymer clay artist (including me) use it during the baking to keep the temperature underneath the clay even.

I was in the hurry to finish the large order and I did not let the tile to cool down between pieces I needed to cure with a heat gun, so the tile has warmed up to the point that it began to leave marks on the table. That was my mistake number two from which I learned to always place a ceramic tile on the surface that can't be burnt. And, to let it cool down after every use no matter how much I'm in the hurry.

After those two fiascos, I start to use my brain and remembered the firebrick I had from days when I worked with pottery. Ever since I use it when I cure liquid polymer clay with a heat gun. The firebrick can stand high temperature (depending on the type it can stand the temperature of 1500 ° C/2732 ° F), and it can't transmit that temperature easily on other surfaces. As we finish the baking with a heat gun that lasts for about a minute or two, the brick does not even get warm, which protects our desks.

But, what you will do if you do not have firebrick? Since my parents live in another city, pretty far from where I am, and my firebrick was in their house, until I took that brick I worked on my balcony, the only place in my apartment that has concrete surface. That worked very well because concrete can't heat up easily, and it can't get burn with a heat gun. So, the solution is to find the concrete surface in your surrounding and to work there. I know it can be hustle, especially during the cold winter days, but better to be safe than sorry.

Learn from my mistakes and always work on the heat-resistant surface. If you want to work with polymer clay seriously and you intend to use liquid polymer clay as a glaze or filling a lot I highly recommend you to, as an addition to ceramic tile, get a firebrick as a working surface. If you cure one to two pieces per day or week you can use ceramic tile, but place it on the concrete floor.
If you work with a heat gun on an already baked piece of clay in order to get the glazing and filling more transparent than you can place it directly to the firebrick. There are some techniques that require baking the sheet of liquid clay with the heat gun as an application for the piece that latter will be baked in the oven, so in that case, put the firebrick beneath the ceramic tile. The firebrick you will find in shops for pottery artist or in local shops where you can get parts for the fireplace or pizza stoves. Also, it can be purchased in certain craft stores, as well online.

Curing techniques

When I got my heat gun I was so excited and I could not wait long to try it. Immediately I grabbed one of the pieces of jewelry glazed with liquid clay and previously baked in the oven, take out my heat gun, point it in the clay and started it up. After few seconds I noticed smoke followed by a terrible smell. I wanted to make the glaze more transparent, but I ended up with a burned piece of jewelry. I already told you that at that time I find online only one tutorial for using a heat gun with polymer clay, and in that tutorial was stated that the heat gun must be very close and pointed in the clay. What a disinformation! That was my third mistake!

That night I talked with my dad over the phone and I started to complain about heat gun, burnt piece of jewelry and how I do not know what I did wrong since I followed that tutorial exactly from word to word. Among other things, he told me that when he uses a heat gun for stripping paint he do not point it at one place, but move it around the surface, and hold it away of the surface he treats. He advised me to try it that way. Next day I started to experiment. I made few test pieces and tried to figure out how to use that heat gun.

So, here is what I learned from my experiments - you must move that heat gun. Move it up and down, left and right, in a circular motion, however, but keep it moving and rotating. If you point the heat at one place, and since the air is hot, you will burn that spot. Therefore, moving the heat gun is very important. Your movements should be even and at medium speed. By moving, you distribute warm air equally to the entire surface and prevent to burn it.

The distance between the clay and heat gun is also very important. If you use embossing heat gun you will hold it 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 inches), and industrial at 12 to 15 cm (5 to 6 inches) away of clay. These measures are just references. When you cure the clay with heat gun for the first time I suggest you take some of the pieces that are not so important to you, or make few test samples, to place the heat gun at highest point (around 20 cm/8 inches) from the clay, and while you moving it in circular motion slowly lower it down until you find the distance that works the best for you, and where your clay will not burn. You may burn some of those test samples, but at least you will know the high you have to hold your heat gun when you work on more important pieces. Experimentation is highly recommended before applying this method to your finished piece. Every heat gun is different and it will take you a little while to master it. You will burn few pieces during practice, but after that, you almost never will burn applied liquid clay.

Also, know that the closer you are to the clay the faster you need to move the heat gun. If you notice the smoke move the heat gun away from that section and let it cool down. You can use this method not just for liquid clay, but also for regular polymer clay pieces that are not very thick or as an option prior to conventional oven baking to help prevent flattening of edges while on the baking tray.

Is it cured?

To know that your liquid clay is sufficiently cured look for the changes in the surface of the clay, as well as overall transparency to indicate when the liquid is clear. When your clay is clear, and usually it takes about a minute or two depending on the thickness of the coating, that is the point when you have to turn off the heat gun. Then let the clay to cool completely. If you want to speed up the cooling process carefully transfer your piece so you do not get burn to the bowl of cold water.

Safty measures

When you use a heat gun you must always be aware of the risk of burning polymer clay, so always work in the well-ventilated area. During the heating avoid putting your hands or anything that can be melted or burned in front of the jet of hot air. After you finish, place the heat gun on the heat-resistant surface. Don't touch the tip of the heat gun or place it close to anything that can melt or burn. The tip will be very hot and it could easily burn you or destroy your belongings.

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DIY Cookies-looking Easter eggs table decoration

These sweet cookies-looking Easter eggs are quick and easy to make using a combination of air dry and polymer clay. Many people believe that combining of those two clays is not possible, but obviously, they are wrong. There are plenty options to use these eggs as Easter decoration - to hang them on the branch you put in the vase, to make garland, to tie them around the napkin, put them in a bowl together with some false grass, to place them on the nest made of raffia, or just to scatter them all over the table. Whatever way you choose to decorate your home with these colorful eggs I guarantee you they will grab everyone's attention.

Material and tools

Air dry clay (terracotta or white)

Polymer clay (green, turquoise blue, magenta, yellow, orange)

Egg template

Baking paper

Paper towels

Acrylic roller

A small bowl of water

Straw

Mini grater
Aluminum foil

Bristle paintbrush

Nail file or sandpaper

Protective mask

Tacky or wood glue

Acrylic paints (green, turquoise blue, magenta, yellow, orange)

Glitter

Raffia or paper ribbons